Comeback in aspic: Why Brawn fits perfectly in today’s time


boiled beef, carrots, celery, leek, garlic and parsley to a simmer in a pot on the stove. And onions with rußschwarzer surface. “The burned one for the color. And the sugar content caramelizes then,” explains Mario Klaric, owner and chef at the tavern in the Braunauer Hof in Munich. He makes today, Brawn, how he served you once, in his master’s examination. In broth aspic powder, so gelatin for the consistency comes later. You could also boil a calf’s head or pig’s bone for the rear. “But then it is for the guests expensive.”

Up to two hours of boiling vegetables and meat. Then it goes to the layers: “Like a Sacher torte,” says Klaric. Until Sud, the need to cool down. Then boiled, then the broth, then vegetables. Always cool in between. A good 45 minutes the procedure takes. Especially in summer, jelly is on the menu. Some of the guests would have extra because of it, says Klaric. Up to 180 portions per week, he prepares. “But it also happens that you run out of.” In fact: According to experts, Brawn is celebrating a small Comeback.

the Background of the Trend of “Nose – to-Tail” so loosely say: to dispose of a pig from nose to tail. Associated with this is growing interest in traditional meat production. “Food-lovers to ask the more,” says Gero Jentzsch from Deutscher Fleischer-Verband. Especially in cities, hand-made, such as blood – and liver sausage, but also Brawn was again popular. “Ten years ago, the Trend went in the other direction.” Since coveted the meat eaters ham rather Cook.

favorite dishes: What are we in the last 100 years Fullscreen


have eaten The most prosperous layer of the society is wanted to one thing above all: fresh shot Wild. And as diverse as possible. So a pig and a deer came to the plate in the top layer of the deer, the wild. In Germany, we ate mainly potatoes, milk soups, and vegetables from the garden.

the head of The German Museum in Boeblingen, Christian Baudisch, speaks of the appreciation of a classic poor-people-food. Marrow bones were have always had for little money. In addition, Brawn is made quickly and the “not-so-attractive Parts of the animal”. “A pig’s head no longer looks like what he is,” says Baudisch. “And so a pig’s head they chew not just in the lunch break.” Also, you could be with Brawn creative, pattern or even entire coat of arms.

Tim Mälzer pig’s head-Post

to buy “More respect than a whole animal and process it completely, don’t go!”

By Denise Snieguole Wachter

in Addition, Sülzprodukte low in fat and calories are explained, such as the German nutrition society (DGE). On average, they contained per 100 grams, 6 grams of fat and 95 calories. And Brawn is diverse: “often vegetables or eggs to be added. There are so many different varieties of Brawn over veal, ham, chicken, tongue or sausage, jellied vegetables jellied meat.”

But: “Germans have never been big meat jelly eaters,” says Jentzsch. According to the business report to 2018 the Association of the Per capita consumption of sausages and meat products is 29.4 kg. Of Brawn/aspic accounted for just 0.6 kg. Therefore, Brawn will be full, despite rising demand, with little relevance to the industry. Also Baudisch says: “much more magazines, and cook books sold than is actually eaten.”

Brawn – a dish with a bit of history

What relevance had jelly time, shows a glance into the history: almost exactly 100 years ago, in June, 1919, stormed Hamburg city hall. The so-called Brawn unrest in the famine of the post – war period, triggered by disgust meat finds and fueled by rumors, a company could even handle rats and cats to Brawn. “The angry crowd throws the jelly producers in the Small Alster”, the “Hamburg history”. In front of the city hall shots were fired.

Speaking of history book: As there were no refrigerators, one had to food to be preserved as long as possible, or to be made. “Curing, Smoking, Canning, Canning has been pushed back with the introduction of the refrigerator,” says Museum Director Baudisch. Before that, Brawn had been in the kitchen popular. Around 1900, there had been huge restaurants, where workers may be layer-by-layer ate. “Plate of meat jelly you directly in the plate. This can be prepared and is to be dealt with for controls that are easy to find,” he explains.

some disgusting nowadays, because of the glibberigen consistency, from Baudischs point of view, a rather young phenomenon. “The Generation Ü60 felt no disgust. People tend to have no desire, because you have always used Brawn to be eaten and it is frowned upon as poor people’s food.” If the younger Generation dedicate now, once again, the Brawn, was a bit of “jungle camp, for better eaters”: “With a comforting shudder, as if you reinwürgt ox testicles.”

In the autumn, a record showed an attempt on the Baltic sea island of Usedom, jelly lines, it creates the: restaurateur André Doemke brought a big fish aspic with EUR 182.4 kg on the scale. No comparison to the portions in the tavern in the braunauer Hof: About 150 grams of the jelly slices, which are served with roasted potatoes and horseradish weigh-in. The fit: The DGE recommends less meat and more plant-based diet. “If meat and sausage to be eaten, should be consumed not more than 300 to 600 grams per week.”

Marco Krefting/ikr / DPA

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