Who has no idea of what could be in a Restaurant that only serves Desserts, it is likely that only once the following completely comprehensible idea: Tiramisú, Panna Cotta, hot raspberries with vanilla ice cream and chocolate cake with liquid core. This is a completely legitimate Desserts, but worlds away from what ends up in the “Coda” on the plates. For the concept of the multi-award-winning top pastry chef René Frank has received its well-deserved Michelin star. And this is a huge success. Around the world in the 100-year history of the Michelin Guide, the first pure Dessert was excellent-Restaurant with a star.
in the Middle of Berlin-Neukölln, hidden behind a Graffiti-sprayed facade, it was completely inconspicuous, one of the new star-Restaurants in Germany. From the outside you would expect it never. Inside you will find a minimalist-style guest room, the light is dimmed. You are sitting at the Bar, looks directly into the kitchen, where the individual dishes are prepared. You bite on a dehydrated, i.e. dried slice of eggplant, the cracks nicely in the mouth and then tastes sweet. Or dried Sauerkraut on a real “Cheesecake” made of cheese. Or eats a chocolate mousse, the dried Bonito is grated. This is supposed to be Desserts? Yes, seven courses.
eggplant-Dessert sounds like a strange and hearty. With techniques of patisserie, there is a harmonious Night is the but.
©star no refined sugar is used
“Our concept is unique,” says René Frank in an interview with the star, and this is completely modest. Frank is a quiet, rather introspective man, who operates his Restaurant in complete Serenity, but highly concentrated. As a kind of Yogi, who is with his Desserts one and his followers patiently to the creations that come out of his Hand, waiting. The kitchen is connected with the guest room, it is relaxed, easy to handle. Here, professionalism par Excellence, but nonetheless, René Frank and his Team fun to work with.
René Frank and his business partner Oliver Bischoff opened in 2016, the “Coda”. Frank is the first pastry Chef, with a pure Dessert Restaurant its own Michelin star. From 2010 to 2016, he was a pastry Chef in the osnabrück Gourmet Restaurant “La Vie” (now closed). In 2013, he was appointed by the Gault-Millau’s “chef of the year” and 2016’s “pastry chef of the year” by Bush publishing.
Frank relies completely on the Freshness of its products. Refined sugar, artificial flavors, dyes and additives are in his Restaurant taboo. The Sweetness he draws exclusively from vegetables and fruit, the bitter notes of herbs and olives, the saltiness of the cheese and anchovies, the acidity of homemade vinegar, tamarind or citrus fruits. “And we use also the fifth sense of taste: Umami. We draw from legumes, tomatoes, mushrooms, and fermented products,” says Frank. “Umami” is the fifth taste besides sweet, sour, salty and bitter. You can describe the taste as salty, spicy, or meaty. Frank and his Team make everything themselves. Also the chocolate. For this, cocoa beans in a granite mill, a day and night grind to chocolate.
To the end of each corridor there is also a Dessert a matched Drink. Also some of them are self-made as self-infusions, or dairy, acidic drinks, such as Kefir or Kombucha, a drink made from the fermented Kombucha mushroom.
What is the cucumber for a Surprise: The “waffle with yogurt” turns out to be a Corn waffle with Raclette cheese and a yogurt from the dried salt.
©star Surprise in your mouth
For the eggplant Dessert with pecan ice cream and Apple balsamic jelly, for example, a Sherry that has been seasoned with Oolong tea and cardamom distillate. In the star Restaurant to get but also simple Desserts, at least at first glance. A “waffles with a yoghurt Dip”. After the first bite but it turns out that the waffle, although such, but is filled with Corn, and with Raclette cheese. The yogurt turns out to be the salt cucumber, which was dried and creamy consistency for Dipping is served. The Surprise in the mouth is a for sure.
And so the Seven-course menu. It is a perfect composition, and follows a classical dramaturgy. Although it is really just dessert in Front of you get nevertheless, the impression-, main – and to get Dessert served. Including Between Courses. From the sugar shock is here far. Anyone in the mood for something “Sweet” to a later hour, you can order from 22 clock is a small menu with Cocktails. The classic menu is served from 19 clock for 128 euros including drinks and Snacks.
Often hone Frank and his Team of up to three months on the perfect plate. You can taste it – and is surprised again. This is the great art. Because appearances can be deceiving, but often, and you will be disabused. For example, in the case of a dark-brown cream. You might think it is chocolate or Nougat. And also when you Try to not only taste a subtle touch that somehow fits to the conditioned sweet palate. The cream turns out to be as black garlic, fermented and processed into a cream. Developed by the Fermentation of a natural Sweetness that is unparalleled.
The dark brown in this Dessert is not chocolate, or Nougat, but a cream of black garlic.
chicken skin in the Dessert?
Inspiration of the chef on trips draws. He recently was in Turkey and ate a traditional Dessert: Tavuk Göğsü, a kind of milk pudding with chicken meat. Frank was so fascinated by that that he dared to reinterpret, and the Dessert on the menu: He designed it and refined it with crispy, battered chicken skin. What may sound strange, in so harmoniously, like all the other “Desserts”, what is their description actually understated.
“At the beginning of the guests came in and just wanted a chocolate cake with liquid core,” says Frank. “It took a bit, until the guests have understood what we do.” The Restaurant will be closed in 2016, was opened in the more hip counterpart, part of Neukölln, has a reason. Here it is still calm and there are a lot of small shops, of which Frank and his Team, for example, refer to the wines.
It was a bold step, a Restato open urant, that the only Desserts on the Flag wrote. Who was here once to eat, expands its horizon in terms of pastry, so pies will be much more than delicate. The Michelin Guide writes that the “kitchen is full of Finesse”, and “Stop value”. The we also find.