Richard Gilmore from Gilmore Girls didn’t want anything else: mock turtle soup


go on, go on, there’s nothing here to see,“ said the Constable in old movies, when bodies are on the Sidewalk. And so also here: We come now to a crime scene. Sensitive readers will continue to scroll so please, for the preparation of court this week only cooks hard-nosed Hobby and chefs recommended. Those with an inclination for the Bizarre. The taste of footnote rich in works of crime history and Browsing in medieval Bestiarien. Chefs must be in your lab back and the door is not open, if the supervision is shaking leading to violence suspiciously at the Jack.

mock turtle soup is our theme, English Mock turtle soup. Actually, she disappeared. I don’t know where it is yet to be found, except in the case of me, but hopefully, these lines will appear again soon in the other kitchens of the German-speaking area. It is an act of culinary preservation of historical monuments and of sentimentality is to prepare. It requires an attitude that is not afraid of toil, hardship endures, the strategic planning demands and, initially, a butcher, to play with, because for the court, we need a calf mask.

calf’s mask, what the is is about carnival? No, it is the result of the following process: A calf is slaughtered and his head from the fuselage separated, on the last cervical vertebrae. The butcher dipped the head in boiling water; by this scalding, he removes the thin outer skin, including the hair of the underlying collagen layer, with the aid of a sharp-rimmed metal funnel, the butcher of the bell. Delicate Bodies, he works with the knife. It so this is a total shave, and it has to be done as gently as thoroughly.

We have after this sequence of events now as bleach as bare head in front of us. How? The butcher led the top blade ritzend and shaving along the bone and separates the skin neatly from the skull, so that he unmasked him in the end.

the butcher’s doing it with the calf. Since it is already dead, not lamenting it, however, and we are of course happy to be in all of this. The challenge for the chef is alone in the fact, to find a master, to make of the willing, capable and able, this work actually.

get to know your butcher

do you know Ask your butcher for a calf mask and reveal his true face. He waves his hand tired, then it is a appropriate companion. He looks confused, because he understands your question in the first place, he is likely to be the recipients cut the animal parts of the body, with which he moves according to “scheme F”: From 1 Kilo of meat is 2 pounds of sausage do (with the source and the binders, water and flavor enhancers).

he Says: “I’ll make you”, or he developed a curious interest in your project and get you what you need, you are in luck. Keep in mind: Not a calf is born without a head, consequently, each one has a mask, and it is only a question of the butcher’s will, whether he helps you or not.

southwest German readers have an advantage here. Yes, Baden, Württemberg, the Palatinate and southern Hesse are dialectal combat zones, culinary but they live, compared with the coastal German, in Paradise – in the South, brain and spleen, lung and heart of animals for slaughter are still available, such as: calf mask.

we assume that we have successfully procured, as we continue? We take a big (!) Pot and the cold water washed the mask lifting, in addition to the attached bake meat. We don’t mind the Lividity of the raw material and the cavities of the Nostrils, and long-distant eyes rooms (like to go as a bird of prey feed in the Zoo). If possible, we still have more veal cheeks and veal bones (like, this can be the zerhauene half of the calf’s skull) and shoulder or breast meat purchased, and enter this into the large pot.

With so much cold water fill until it over the meat a half a hand wide. The water bring to a Boil and the ascending gray foam with a slotted spoon, until no longer capable of meeting.

Roiling boil is not required, and a gentle Boil is what we want. We give a dozen Peppercorns, a couple of flower scraps nutmeg, some cloves, Bay leaves and onions to it and let the matter drag until the mask is cooked through. The cooking point is reached, when we skin the calf, with the index finger, by sting (as I wrote: harden will have to endure). This can take 3-4 hours, but to scald earlier, his Finger doesn’t hurt.

We pour the Garflüssigkeit through a sieve into a container (I have a bucket of seamless deep-drawn stainless steel). We take the balmy heat cooled mask from the pot (you wabbelt), Nestle them in a wide, best metal and enameled pan and leave to cool. We give you covered in the fridge, leave it there over night and get the next day, a nearly rigid Block, from which we cut the most beautiful dice.

The muscle fleischernen lots in the pot, we let if cool down. Frozen they are easier to clean (so unbecoming dates clean) and roll the dice; the bones we give to the dog.

Why all this?

intermediate step: Mock turtle soup not only tastes, it is also interesting because it illuminates the politics and history. The British grabbed in the 17th century. Century, parts of the Caribbean, Jamaica especially. There, they looked after what to eat because that’s the way “the locals”. And see, sea turtles were including! We caught and beheaded, carved, triggered their muscle meat (division, also under the upper and lower tank adhesive cream-substances Callipash and Callipee is not), and boiled for the strong collagen chunks, which the British exploited properly, Madeira wine, perhaps to mask the taste.

Madeira was the wine that they had available, because the island was often the last stop before the Crossing, the ships protected the durable, with brandy enhanced the delicious substance that we have today and value from the Mode to complain. Not too long, because the turtles were shipped to the British court, where what was regarded only as a curiosity, quickly, a fashion and then a delicacy.

As to the “good Queen Anne” (which was just in the cinema in the Oscar-winning “The Favourite”) in 1714, Duke Georg Ludwig of Brunswick-Lüneburg in personnel Union was the English king, came to turtle soup. Instead of, as before, to France, the German noble houses, and a large citizen at the time, more and more, even after England looked up, only right, as the Queen Victoria married Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. The German view of England, half envious and half admiring, not led to such a raging paragraph vonSchildkrötensuppe also for us, that two lost wars reduced it. Still in 1959, verkochte the Frankfurt company Eugen Lacroix 250 tons, the deep-cooled in the Main came were turtles, to soup.

follow: Within 200 years, the rich Europeans and the poor Caribs spooned her food away and the Caribbean is empty. The Washington species protection conference in 1973, began to put an end to it.

But why, when the real one was so popular, there was also a mock turtle soup? The Mock turtle soup had been in Britain an invention of the real turtle meat, only bad could get. Mock turtle was in no way a poor, but respectable imaginary replacement, based on the hope that the real turtle soup, in the end, not so very much different tasting than veal Consommé, particularly when flavoured with Madeira.

The strong, their gelatinous, so collagen-containing character of the liquid in the Original is achieved by the use of calf mask, feet and bone, another muscle meat such as the cheek. The in slaughtered the Original end-to-locate turtle eggs are imitated by Mark or semolina dumplings.

So far, So good. Of course, it is not done for a delicate soup, animal take off parts for a statement, similar to a tea, as a meat fond, Yes, but there is also a need of the 1 the soup greens, 2 onions, 3 Bay leaves and 1/2 a bottle of Madeira. Sophie Wilhelmine Scheibler, in your “German cooking book for all levels” of 1815 is complementary to the mask of broth in half by a “good broth of beef and veal”. In addition, you roast the bones of the skull for a nice color first of all, what is good for us but too complicated, especially since the Scheibler itself, allows the handle to “sugar-Jus”.

turtle eggs you imitating from 3 hard yolks through a sieve, salt, nutmeg, a nut-sized piece of Butter, a little flour, and 1 raw egg yolk. She turns dumplings “little one round” of it, and boil them in water.

Also, the calf’s brain uses it, you water it, skin and cook it for 15 minutes in a light vinegar and water. The cooled brain rolls, breaded and fried, and there is at the end of the soup, as well as cubes of tongue (I take Pökelzunge). “Salt,” she writes and pours half the bottle of Madeira in the end.

Recently, an elderly gentleman, a strong man and tree outliers helped me Transport a refrigerator on several floors. I rewarded him with a false turtle soup (I keep them in a Jar). The Lord ate and meditated and then said: “Fantastic, what is it?” Whereupon I told, what is written here. Admittedly, as a soup, a challenge to prepare, but as mentioned it is just for real hardened people. In awkward moments and a SIP from the bottle, such as the following …


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